There is some scientific literature that looks at the optimal way to train finger strength on a hangboard. The basic result is to set up the training as follows:

Initial steps:

1. You can either add weight (+10kg or more) and use larger holds or don’t add weight and choose smaller holds. The scientific literature seems to suggest that adding weight and using larger holds has a stronger training impact.
2. Choose different kinds of holds/grips.

Bouldering:

• Choose a hold or a hold/weight combination such that you can at most hold it for 10 seconds.
  
• Optimal hang time per hang is 6.
• Optimal repetitions of a hang is 5 with a 5 second rest in between reps and 2 minute rest in between sets. Do 3 sets of each kind of hold/grip.
  

Routes:

• Choose a hold or a hold/weight combination such that you can at most hold it for 25 seconds.
• Optimal hang time per hang is 12.
• Optimal repetitions of a hang is 10 with a 10 second rest in between reps and 3 minute rest in between sets. Do 3-5 sets of each kind of hold/grip.

 

Those interested in more information should go HERE.